Climbing, the Environment, and Cognitive Dissonance

Guest Post by Zach Smith

Instagramming Crowds at National Parks [NPR] - Unofficial Networks

Modern climbing and other outdoor pursuits are taking a huge toll on the environment. As we try to be more and more “outdoorsy” and immersed in nature we are adversely impacting the environment in a very big way.

This discussion has temporal, philosophical, and geophysical components.  The temporal portion is personal, both long-term and short-term.

The Temporal

I remember when 55mph was the upper-speed limit on the highway, we shared what gear we had (canvas packs and sneakers), and we knew every corner of our nearby crags, peaks, and trails because we just did not feel/did not have the means to travel and explore too far from home. 

Now, it seems that 55mph is the slowest possible limit for driving and people deal with the environment in the same fast-paced way.  How fast can I knock off a couple of routes, peaks, or lines? 

Have we traded the adventure for more of the same fast-paced consuming style we are accustomed to? 

The transportation idea is also about how fast and far you drive to get to the mountains/crag (faster driving, more nonrenewable resources used, more pollution).  An obvious insult to the Tragedy of the Commons, as we are burning more fuel at a faster rate just to get to the crags, thus having much more environmental impact.  

That non-renewable fuel includes parking and access infrastructure and all of our “plastic” gear.  Even if your modern gear is recycled polyester, it still has a petroleum chemical origin and largely ends up in the landfill.  

I remember climbing before bolts. I’ve definitely climbed some bolted routes but without them, I would have found a different route, or possibly found a way up that route by increasing my skill, or simply not climbed the route at all and found an alternative. 

I am concerned about the trend to remove all bolts and anchors.  With only anecdotal evidence, climbing is a different sport than it was 30 years ago.  I do not think any safer according to accident reports.  There are more outdoor climbers with less actual knowledge of safe climbing practices who would be “lost” without bolts and fixed anchors. It is typical now for everyone to own a car and drive themselves, not carpool. 

The Philosophical

Photo Credit John Middendorf -  “Climbing Tools & Techniques 1908 to 1939” 

The philosophical portion of the discussion is much about how much we feel that we need to accomplish our outdoor pursuits. Growing up, hiking, camping, and climbing close to home was enough to satisfy my outdoor needs. 

Now through the media and increased access, it seems to me that outdoor enthusiasts have a greater need to check off far-flung accomplishments. I climbed here, I went to these crags, I, etc etc etc.  

When is our list of climbs enough to satisfy our outdoor identities? 

I have climbed/explored globally. But as fun as it was, it was not any more exciting than learning every inch of my home crags nor did I feel like I was discovering anything new following someone else’s adventures in other places. 

Call it paradise, people will swarm to get there, and they will put up a parking lot (and/or hotel) -paraphrased.  Now, almost anyone in good physical shape can go and do anything with the right gear, a competent guide, and fixed lines.  

And there is the incredible engineering of modern gear. The first ice routes were done by cutting steps without front point crampons, with ropes tied around the waist. Now recurve axes allow “beginners” to climb hard ice routes.  

Every piece of gear has been re-engineered; ropes, biners, belay devices, footwear, clothing etc etc, etc.  Remember the time before modern sleeping pads and when climbing was done in wool sweaters? 

Or does modern engineering even matter as long as you get up a route? 

Certainly, anyone with a disability should be given the greatest possible chance of accomplishing their outdoor dreams. Still, most of us take advantage of performing at levels we are not normally capable of without 21st-century gear. 

If we are keeping score I wonder if climbing etc should be given handicaps like some other sports? 

The Geophysical

The geophysical question is a combination of the temporal and philosophical, our level of experience, and access.  

I’m all about guiding, still am a guide. When I travel I often hire a guide to show me the route, to fill in local knowledge, and to keep their local eye on conditions. Though always prepared to get myself off the mountain.  

It seems that there are more guided excursions than ever before to places that people are not capable of going to on their own. The best guides are still the ones that do not talk to but teach their clients, and know that teaching is not a once-and-done operation but requires continual education.  

Years ago, there was an unspoken apprentice program in the outdoors where we learned to place trad gear one piece at a time on stone walls before we attempted real rock routes, often facilitated by more experienced outdoors folk.

The Cognitive Dissonance

Crowded Parking Lot at Glacier National Park. Photo Credit: Glacier National Park’s Facebook Page

Ahh, and what about “cognitive dissonance”? Cognitive dissonance is our brain’s hard-wiring ability to justify our actions.

I need to make this climb so I’m spending money on top-of-the-line equipment because it might make me better.  I’m bagging this peak though I’m not sure I can do it on my own so I’ll take the quick “route” and not learn all the skills I need, possibly just get a guide to get me up. And we can go on and on. 

When was the last time any of us calculated our carbon footprint? We are not talking about picking up garbage on the trail which is a minor gesture (though a good gesture) compared to the fuel we burn and the larger direct impact we each make on the environment. 

How much gear do we own, how much do we need, and which are made from environmentally sustainable materials? And from B-corp or equivalent companies. Who calculates their direct and indirect environmental effects? 

We can choose gear/a vehicle because it is the most environmentally friendly and choose to buy from a company with the best environmental record.  Do not buy it just because your buddy has it. 

We can climb locally because it’s just plain fun instead of ticking off another distant route. After all, the folks in the magazine said it was cool. 

Carbon offsets can be purchased or exchanged as one way of giving back.  Now, just because you use carbon offset does not mean you get to get off scot-free. But when we do pursue our outdoor dreams we can offset a portion of our damage by offsets or personal trading.  This weekend I’m driving to the crags to climb and next weekend I’ll stay local.

Where Does All This “Lead”?

We need our outdoor pursuits to be much more in line with our outdoor hearts.  Are our outdoor pursuits still an adventure and environmentally neutral?  Are we just happy that nature is there to enjoy, to help fulfill our lives? 

Possibly we need another outdoor revolution.  One that moves from listing accomplishments and gear collecting to one that is more in line with nature, being privileged, not entitled, to enjoy it. 

This is not romanticizing the past days of outdoor pursuits. Many modern advances have allowed a wider audience and enhanced our being outdoors, but now it is much more at the expense of destroying what we cherish.  

I hope that we can continue to pursue our outdoor activities, stop rationalizing that we need new stuff (gear and transport), and simply perform our outdoor activities in ways that do not negatively impact the environment. 

Wage Peace,

~Zach 

Zach has been adventuring for a long time. Between all seven continents he has climbed a few peaks (and walls), kayaked a couple of rivers, bicycled many a mile, BC (tele)skied enough vertical feet to reach space, and tried to explain the importance of the environment to thousands of students. His ultimate goal is to try to live carbon-neutral and leave no trace on the planet. Nothing left but rumors….

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